Stove Smells Like Gas
Usually turns out to be
What to check first
What we do
Ten repairs we take on. Every repair below has a page about that one stove job: what the work involves, where it lands on the cost scale, and the age at which an old stove is better replaced than fixed.
Mon–Sat, 8am–8pm
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Familiar brands. Expert care.
Independent repair service. Not affiliated with, authorized or endorsed by any manufacturer. Brand names and model numbers are the property of their respective owners and are used here for identification only, to describe the appliances we service.
In the order it gets done: the cheapest cause first, and the expensive answer at the bottom where it usually belongs.
A visit that cooks on your stove the way you do, burners on top and the oven below, and finds the part that failed before anything is ordered.
Gas burners on a stove that light weakly, burn unevenly or will not hold a steady flame, fixed at the cap, the burner head, the orifice or the valve behind the knob.
Gas stove burners that tick without lighting, keep ticking after they light or tick with every knob off, traced to the electrode, the spark switch or the spark module.
Coil burners on an electric stove that stay cold, flicker or work only when moved, fixed at the coil, the socket it plugs into or the wiring behind it.
Smooth glass stovetops on electric and induction stoves with a cold circle, a cracked or chipped top, or a hot-surface light that stays on, repaired under the glass or with a new top.
The oven part of a stove that stays cold, heats slowly or bakes too hot or too cool, fixed at the bake and broil elements, the oven igniter, the gas valve or the temperature sensor.
Stove knobs that are cracked, loose or spin in place, and the switches behind them that leave a burner stuck on high or dead, replaced at the knob, the stem or the switch.
Stoves with a blank or flashing display, touch keys that do not answer, codes that keep returning or a stove that will not turn on, traced to the board, the keypad or the power to them.
Oven doors on a stove that will not close, drop open, sit crooked or leak heat, fixed at the hinges, the door seal, the glass or the door lock.
A check of what connects your stove to the house, the gas valve and connector or the cord and outlet, plus the anti-tip bracket, when a stove is moved, replaced or has sat unused.
Before you bookBands rather than prices, because nobody can quote a figure before the stove has been looked at — and the diagnostic visit that decides it, set against the repair.
10 repairsCheapest firstDiagnostic visit Read the cost guideWhen weighing a stove repair, picture the whole bill for a new stove, not the price on the showroom tag: delivery, hauling the old one away, a new gas connector or cord, and a slide-in model that must match the gap and the counter edge you already have. Against that, igniters, coils, sockets, knobs, hinges and oven elements are nearly always worth replacing. A new stove tends to make sense only when a glass top and a control board fail together on an older stove, the board for your model is no longer made, or rust has come through the oven floor.
| Repair | Relative cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Gas burner head, cap, orifice or valve | low to moderate | Cleaning, reseating and adjusting a burner often needs no part. A new head or cap is a small cost, while a burner valve sits higher because the stovetop is opened and every joint is leak-tested afterward. |
| Electrode, spark switch or spark module | low | An electrode or a single spark switch is a small part reached from the top of the stove. A spark module costs a little more and is reached from the back or under the stovetop. |
| Coil burner, socket or drip pan | lowest | Coils, sockets and drip pans are among the least costly parts on any stove. Renewing burned wire ends behind a socket adds a few minutes, not much more. |
| Glass stovetop, element or induction coil | moderate to highest | An element or limiter under the glass stays toward the middle of the scale. A whole new glass top, made for one model, is one of the costliest jobs a stove can need, and more so on an induction stove. |
| Oven element, igniter, gas valve or sensor | low to moderate | A bake or broil element and a temperature sensor are modest parts fitted from inside the oven. A gas oven igniter sits in the middle, and a gas safety valve comes out higher. |
| Knob, stem or burner switch | low | A knob on its own is minor. A switch behind a knob takes a short job with the power off, and scorched wire ends on it are renewed during the same visit. |
| Control board, keypad or display | moderate | A reseated connector or a cleared lock costs little. A keypad or a display board lands in the middle, and an induction power board pushes the job toward the top of the scale. |
| Oven door hinges, seal or lock | low | Hinges are replaced in pairs and a seal clips in, both from the front of the stove. A door lock on a self-cleaning stove, or door glass, adds a little more. |
| Gas connector, cord or anti-tip bracket | low | A new connector, cord or bracket is an inexpensive part. Most of the time goes into sliding the stove out safely, leak-testing each fitting and setting it back square. |
Most people arrive knowing the symptom, not the repair. These are the jobs each one usually turns out to be, cheapest first — and every one of them starts with the diagnostic visit.
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What to check firstUsually turns out to be
What to check firstUsually turns out to be
What to check firstUsually turns out to be
What to check firstUsually turns out to be
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What to check first
Back to your everyday
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